Thursday, December 16, 2010

Made jack-o-lanterns, ate tons of candy, and watched Beetle Juice with the English Club for Halloween.
Did I mention that I got to meet the President? =) Here’s a picture of our group waiting around for him to arrive in our private tent next to the speech venue. Still waiting for the actual picture with Mr. Obama to arrive, but here are some other ones until then!

The badges we were given to get into University of Indonesia for the President’s speech.

After meeting the President, we were escorted to our seats—Reserved/”Special” Peace Corps Volunteers—as “Special guests of the First Lady”

Then we watched the President give an amazing speech at the University of Indonesia in Jakarta, Indonesia.
Came back and celebrated Idul-Adha in the village again. Went to the mosque with my host sister =)

On our walk to the mosque…it is so peaceful and beautiful as the sun rises over the village in the morning.

Did Thanksgiving Indonesia-style with Rujak Manis (fresh fruit served with a spicy peanut and sweet soy sauce dip), Es Kelapa Muda (tender coconut water), and Pumpkin Kolak (pumpkin pieces cooked in sweet coconut milk—because we have to have something pumpkin-made for Thanksgiving).

Made “hand turkeys” on Thanksgiving Day in my classes.

Cut one of my students’ hair after he was given a really bad haircut at school…actually I didn’t do much…I probably made it worse. He later went to the barber and got it fixed for real. But it was pretty funny to watch.
Hiked to a waterfall, about an hour away from my house, with some of my students.


It was SO steep….up and down, up and down….it was so slippery. And of course, I fell. Three times. So the little rascals took pictures of me.


After slipping and sliding through mud for about half an hour we finally arrived at this serene and refreshing oasis, Sobyok. Three waterfalls in one…a tiny one, a medium –sized one that felt like you were getting a massage when you stood under it, and a huge one that we couldn’t even get under because it was too strong.

Such a natural beauty, and we had the place all to ourselves!

The group—yeah, camera timer!—Ilham, Yazid, Rimo, Komang, and me!

Sunday, September 12, 2010

Mohon maaf lahir dan batin!

After 30 days of fasting, on September 10th Ramadhan finally came to an end with what is called “Hari Raya” (the Big Day), “ Idul Fitri” (also known as Eid ul-Fitr in Arabic, meaning festivity of purification), or more informally “Lebaran” (religious holiday).

As Indonesia is the nation with the largest Muslim population in the world, it is widely celebrated here and everyone here has been anticipating and preparing for this day in a fashion that is comparable to Christmas in the states. It is really exciting! There are so many traditions that lead up to this one day and even more traditions on Hari Raya itself. I’m going to try to start from the beginning and work my way up to September 10th.

First, of course, the majority of the population fasts for 30 days before Idul Fitri as I mentioned before. So, at the end of the fast, there are many preparations for a big feast to celebrate the end of the fasting month. Two days before , we started making “ketupat”, which are diamond shaped rice holders made of woven palm leaves. On Wednesday, I sat for hours with my sister and brother-in-law making ketupat, eating krupuk (fried chip-like snacks made of rice flour), and listening to Indonesian and Hindi music by candle-light (because the power had gone out). It was a lot of fun!

After those are made, the next day rice is cooked inside these little holders in preparation for the big feast the next day. Rice is also cooked in banana leaves twisted into a cone shape, this is called “lontong”. During this holiday, it is common to make chicken, so everyone either kills chickens that they already have or buys chicken from the market and it is prepared curry-style with coconut milk and various spices. This is eaten with the lontong and ketupat rice dishes.
These preparations are all made the day before, but on the actual day of Idul Fitri, people wake up early, around 4:30 am and have something to eat to symbolize that they are no longer fasting, then they go to the mosque to pray together. On Friday morning I put on my kebaya (traditional Javanese outfit) and went to the mosque with my host family and the rest of the village. Friday was the first sunny morning we had all week, so it was breathtaking to watch the sun rise over the village, the rice fields, and all of the neighbors’ homes on our walk to the big green mosque. Once at the mosque, most of the neighbors were pleasantly surprised to see me there as well, but they were all so welcoming! I sat next to some of the little girls in the village who come to my home for English lessons and they showed me how to wear the “rukuh”, a white outfit that women wear over their clothes while praying, and how to follow along with the prostrations. Even the rukuh, though all of them are white and cover the entire body, are all a little different too. Each has its own decorations or designs to show the taste and style of its owner. The service itself was short and quite beautiful. Seeing the entire community come together to honor the end of an important season for them, praying together, was really kind of neat. Then at the end, we greet our neighbors and everyone goes back home.

After the prayer at the mosque, it is common for people to change into new clothes they have bought for the occasion. This is a big shopping season here. All of the stores are packed with shoppers, the markets have tons of new clothes to buy, and everywhere you look there are “Lebaran” and “Idul Fitri” sales! Men usually wear “baju koko” a nehru-collared type long or short-sleeve shirt with embroidered designs and a sarong with a plaid pattern of similar color to the shirt, and a “peci” hat. Women wear “kebaya krudung” an outfit consisting of a loose-fitting blouse, a long skirt, and a jilbab. If you’ve seen my pictures, its the traditional outfits my friends and I were wearing with the red top and batik pattern skirt (with the funny hair-do).

After changing, everyone goes to their relatives houses and neighbors houses and asks for forgiveness for any sins they have committed in the past and will commit in the future. I really like the idea of taking a day out to specifically ask for forgiveness and let everyone start over with a completely clean slate. It’s nice to get old grudges out of the way and start the next chapter in peace and harmony. It is common for people to take part in “pulang kampung” (literally go home to the village) or “mudik” which means that people travel back to their home towns in order to visit their relatives. This can be a quick trip, just to stop by and give holiday greetings to your relatives, or it can be a longer trip where family travel and stay at the homes of other relatives. Because of Indonesia’s population size, this is one of the largest human migrations in the world as people travel to ask forgiveness from their relatives. On Friday I went to all of the relatives of my family members and asked for forgiveness, then as the weekend continued and I had more time, I also went to the homes of the neighbors and asked forgiveness from them as well.

Not only is this a time to “minta maaf” (ask forgiveness), it’s also a time to eat. A LOT. I have had so much cookies, chips, sweet tea, rice, chicken, and so much more forced upon me in the last few days! It seems like they are trying to make up for 30 days of missing meals by forcing you to eat a bunch now! It’s great, but it’s been nonstop for 3 days and I’m a little tired from the act of eating itself. But it’s rude not to eat, and when people come to my house I force them to eat as well, so I guess I’ll just deal with it.

Another Idul Fitri tradition is that there is a mandatory salary bonus for all employees, so all of the teachers at the school were given a nice big bonus before their two weeks of holiday. As I am a volunteer and am not allowed to receive cash, I was given about 200,000 Rupiah worth of candy, wafers, chocolate, cookies, soft drinks, juice...it was amazing! Add that to the sugar I’ve had in the last few days and I’m a diabetic now for sure.

This day really reminds me of Christmas or Easter morning in the states. Everyone wakes up early in the morning, we go to church with the family, then we come home and go to relatives homes to give out gifts, on Christmas, or candy, on Easter, and offer holiday greetings. It’s a day filled with family, food, friends, and fun. It really made me miss my family, but the hospitality of all the neighbors here helped me to see that I’m also gaining a new family here as well and it’s really touching to know that.

There are so many traditions that are great about this holiday...visiting relatives, everyone gathering together to prepare and eat a lot of great food, buying new clothes, getting money (or sugar), but the most important and the best tradition is asking for forgiveness from everyone around you. So, in the spirit of Ramadhan I would like to say “Mohon maaf lahir dan batin” (I ask forgiveness from birth and in all my actions) and I would like to ask forgiveness of all of my past sins. If I have wronged any of you in any way I am sincerely sorry and hope to not commit those same mistakes again.

Selamat Idul Fitri!

Thursday, September 9, 2010

“An eye for an eye makes the whole world blind.” -Mahatma Ghandi

Some people are so ignorant and intolerant of things that are outside of their system of beliefs and outside the scope of their understanding that it amazes me. The church in Florida that is threatening to burn Qur’ans on September 11th to mark the anniversary of what happened in 2001 in New York is a perfect example of a group of extremists who call themselves a part of a specific religious group, but are merely misguided maniacs on the fringe of that society. They don’t follow the basic principles of the religion, but find specific outrageous, and often outdated, ideas and fixate on them. Another example would be the people who flew planes into the World Trade Center nine years ago and killed so many innocent people in the name of a religion that promotes peace.

After living in Indonesia for about 6 months now, I have seen tolerance, respect, openness, and kindess from the citizens of the largest muslim population in the world. Even though I do not follow their system of worship, I have gotten nothing but the highest regard for my beliefs. Nothing to suggest or provoke narrow-mindedness like this.

Terrorism is not just the act of bombing crowded markets and flying planes into busy office buildings, it is any act of violence or retaliation against a viewpoint that you do not share. It is the reluctance and unwillingness to accept another person’s view or freedom to choose their own beliefs. It is wanting to do something inflammatory because someone did something that you do not agree with—like burning the holy book of a religion you do not follow because some fanatics did something crazy in the name of that religion!

I wonder what these so-called christians in this so-called church in Florida teach their children. Do they teach only outdated beliefs from the Old Testament? An eye for an eye? If someone does something to hurt you, you must do something to hurt them? If so, someone please call Child Protective Services because in my opinion that has to be a form of neglect and abuse.

Last night I received a message from our Security and Safety Coordinator informing me that due to this church’s actions, there have been protests at the offices of the Embassy in Jakarta and the Consulate in Surabaya. I am nowhere near those places, and I live in a small village where people are pretty protective of me, so I’m not worried, but I am embarrassed. I’m embarrassed that my coworkers, friends, and neighbors may see that on the news and get a different impression of Americans and christians than what I hope I am portraying to them. I hope that my actions and behavior in the last 6 months will reassure them that these people are not the norm, they are radicals that do not share the views of the majority of christians. If anything I hope it can help promote tolerance and acceptance for all religions and beliefs, regardless of your own personal views.

Saturday, August 28, 2010

The Color Purple

I’ve been giving English lessons to some of the kids in my village who want to learn the language. Most of these kids are a lot younger than my high school students and they’re all at different levels, so we decided to start from the very basics and continue on from there, spending more or less time based on what they know and don’t know. Well for one of the first lessons, I wanted to go over colors with the kids. Not having a set of crayons, and wanting some (not solely for the purpose of instruction), I went to the store to find a set.

As I looked through the “crayons section” and looked at the color sets, I realized that there was something missing…the color purple. I checked almost all of the sets under 20 colors and none of them had the color purple! It was really strange. I know it’s not a primary color, but it always seemed like a pretty crucial color to me. By gosh, it’s a secondary color! If you don’t trust my judgment about its importance, ask my sister Sherlyn. She probably has a million crayons and markers and color pencils…she basically majored in colors (just kidding, she’s an interior designer…but she gets the importance of purple) and she can let you know. Also, Oprah produced a movie based on this color, so that in itself should be enough to convince you of the validity of my argument.

Well I finally chose a small set of colors, begrudgingly and mainly because I didn’t have that much time to keep searching around, and I took it home to my kids and taught them colors without the added fun of being able to see “ungu” up close and personal.

Later, I asked my friend why there was no purple in any of the coloring sets, when there were two different greens and two different blues and a “nude” color. She wasn’t quite sure. Later, after considering it a little more she explained that purple is the color for widows, so that could be a possible reason as to why it is left out of children’s color boxes. In this superstitious society, I guess I can buy that reasoning even if I think it’s depriving the children of a beautiful royal hue.

Anyways, my family and I painted our walls purple yesterday (which was chosen because it was the only color left) so it made me think of that little fun fact.

Wednesday, August 18, 2010

Road Signs of Indonesia

 


What exactly does this mean?! I’ve asked a few Indonesians, but no one seems to have a definitive answer. That may be because you can get a driver’s license by paying the equivalent of $2 to the local police. Personally, I feel like there’s going to be a bear attack at any point…
Posted by Picasa

Tuesday, August 17, 2010

Hari Kemerdekaan Republik Indonesia

Happy Independence Day, Indonesia!

65 years ago Indonesia was proclaimed to be a nation independent of its former colonizing nation, the Netherlands (can you guess who most Indonesians were NOT rooting for in the World Cup?). In celebration, the 10th graders at my school and students from the middle and elementary school plus their teachers all gathered at the district office in our village and had a special flag-raising ceremony. It was pretty neat. A few of the 12th graders from our school were the ones who actually raised the flag and it was interesting seeing them dressed in white and red (the colors of the Indonesian flag) and marching and looking so proper! It was over by 10 a.m. and we had the rest of the day off from school.

This is definitely a big difference from how we celebrate our Independence Day back home...barbecue, picnics, big firework shows, giving fire to little kids. I spent a good part of the morning and the last few days explaining the differences to many different people. It is interesting how for such a big day that is basically the same, it is celebrated so differently. I can't even remember the last time I saw a flag being raised before coming here (by the way, we have a flag ceremony every Monday morning at my school), I think it was in elementary school. I don't think one is better or worse than the other, but it sure did make me miss bbq and sangria...

I WILL SURVIVE

…and I have survived my first week of fasting!

*Takes a bow*

*Gives “high fives” all around*

Bercanda! (Just kidding!) It really wasn’t so bad. It probably helped that I had last week off so that I could get through the first five days at home and not have to work or really exert myself. But I still like to think my iron will and intense concentration had something to do with it as well. =)

So here’s how it went down. The first day, I got up around 3:30 am, ate a bunch of rice, then went back to bed feeling sick because of eating that much food so early. I woke up again around 6, went about my day and killed time, then around 5:30 pm we were able to break the fast. For dinner the whole family sat down to eat together, for the first time, and the meal was served. At that point food in proportions I had never encountered before for six people were laid out and ready to be devoured. Sugar-loaded drinks were refilled constantly in all of our glasses. Cakes, cupcakes, and all sorts of sweet and savory deep-fried snacks were forced upon me—by the bagful—and I ate it.

As you can probably imagine, I overdid it a little. I felt so sick after eating that much food. I couldn’t sit, I couldn’t talk, I couldn’t sleep—it was too uncomfortable—so I made Bu Sul take a walk with me. We walked around the village, talked to a bunch of neighbors (who offered me more food), met some new people, and I started to feel a little better….but not much.

So I made a decision. This could not continue for 30 days…there is no way I could survive if I had to eat like this every day. The next morning I got up and made scrambled eggs, two, with a side of cherry tomatoes. It was yummy, filling (but not stuffing), and it was a normal sized meal. Just because I am fasting does not mean I need to eat truckloads of food in order to get through it.
I still tend to overdue the evening meals a little… I can’t help it, there’s just so much delicious food and I’m so hungry at that point…but I continue to take long walks.

There was one day that I broke down and had a drink because I had been walking around all day in the scorching heat of being about 7 degrees away from the equator and I couldn’t help it. I didn’t want to die and I think God and everyone else will understand… I hope. Other than that, I have been really good about not breaking the fast until sundown!

So that’s the first week… I’ll continue to keep you posted on how it’s going!

Wednesday, August 11, 2010

Ramadhan

According to the Islamic calendar, today marks the first day of Ramadhan, a religious observance in the Islamic faith. This period symbolizes the coming of the first chapter of their religious book, the Qur’an, to Earth and it being given to the prophet Muhammad (pbuh- peace be upon him...its common to say this). During that time, Muhammad was ordered to fast for a month to bring him closer to Allah, so now millions of Muslims all around the world join together and commemorate the sacrifice that Muhammad made.

Already called to prayer five times a day, for this 30-day period during the year, followers of the Islamic faith will fulfill another obligation, of fasting, as well. Starting from the first call to prayer at 4 a.m., until sunset, everyone following “Puasa” (fasting) will refrain from eating, abstain from drinking, avoid doing anything that is useless or wrong (including sexual intercourse, which is forbidden), and avoid hurting people whether in actions or words. It is a time to cleanse the body and the soul. During this time they pray to Allah to thank him for everything they are given, work on improving their personality and behavior, and take the opportunity to empathize with those less fortunate than themselves.

So what does all this mean for me, a perpetually hungry, Christian woman from America?

It means that for the next 30 days, I will be getting up at 3:30 a.m. to eat something before the first call to prayer, will fast all day, and then will break my fast with my host family at sundown. It means that I will be thanking God for all of the opportunities that I have been given. It means that I will be considering everything I have and will be praying for all of the people that go without some or all of those things every day of their lives. It means that I will think about the flaws that I find in my personality and in my behavior and I will try to change them to better myself and society. And it means that even though it has been a very long time since I have fasted, I will be joining my coworkers, my students, my neighbors, the majority of the Indonesian population, and Muslims worldwide, in what I expect to be an intense, but worthwhile endeavor.

Yes, I know you’ve previously heard me complain about being stuffed like a bird on Thanksgiving, but now you will get thirty days of complaints about me being hungry (“lapar”) and tired (“capek”). I’m fickle…what are you gonna do?

Thursday, August 5, 2010

Washing Dishes

Our house runs on a central water system, which means we have a well at the back of the house from which water is pumped every day. We have no running water, so we have a big bucket of water where we keep any water that will be used for cooking.

When I was lazy at home, it was always possible to just throw the dishes in the dish washer. Here you can leave it for later, allow the ants to attack, maybe the rats, then you get to do it yourself later. Our kitchen sink consists of 2 plastic buckets filled with water. You “rinse” your plate in the first bucket, soap and wash the plate with a sponge, then rinse again in the first bucket, then rinse one last time in the second bucket. All the dishes are washed using the same water. It was a little hard to stomach at first, but I decided to take the words of one of my friends and trust that “the germs will make me healthier”. I’m not a scientist (and neither is she) but it sounds okay to me. If you know better, don’t correct me…ignorance is bliss.

The Flow of Things

DISCLAIMER: If you are easily disgusted, this blog posting is not for you! In this posting I will be discussing many things related to my bowels and what moves me…. So read with caution!

I will start with the squatty potty. Yes, I have used squatty potties before, especially when I visited India last summer, but I have to admit that this seems like a completely different experience from what I experienced there. First, in my dad’s home in Kerala, we had a regular Western-style toilet, meaning I could sit on it and it flushed, so I was pretty spoiled. Here, even if you have a toilet on which you can sit, it doesn’t flush. You just pour scoopfuls of water into it until whatever you deposited goes down permanently. This really is an art form… there’s a certain motion and a flick of the wrist that ensure proper disposal. In India I usually tried to hold any bodily functions, if possible, until I was able to find an acceptable toilet… but that doesn’t really work here. The potties are almost all squatty potties, especially the ones at the places I frequent most (home, school, friends’ houses, public offices), and the only places you are likely to find sitting toilets are western restaurants (like KFC, McDonald’s, or Pizza Hut) or hotels…none of which I regularly visit.

Second, we had toilet paper. They do not use TP here. They do not have the plumbing capabilities to facilitate the disposal of the TP, so instead they have big tubs of water and a bucket that you can use to pour water to clean yourself. That is not so easy to do, especially when you are squatting over, essentially, a hole in the ground and trying to balance yourself. Third, in India we had these squirting hose things that made it much easier to clean yourself. In Indonesia, I have only seen these squirting hoses in hotels or nice restaurants; they are not at all common. This brings me to the problem that has troubled me immensely… pouring with one hand while cleaning with the other. There is a reason the left hand is called the “dirty hand.” It is extremely disturbing, especially when using a public squatty potty where there is no soap… my friends and I all carry hand sanitizer with us wherever we go.

So from there I will continue on to what made us frequent those lovely squatty potties so regularly… diarrhea! For at least the first 2-3 weeks at our training sites it seemed like the rhea was a constant companion of mine. Whether it was a spicy meal, some improperly cleaned fruit, or water that wasn’t sufficiently purified, it all seemed to want to come out in a hurry. It was nothing major or threatening, just normal phenomenons while our bodies, and our stomachs in particular, adjusted themselves to their new conditions. During those first few weeks, I always made sure to have ready access to a toilet immediately after all my meals…just in case. Luckily, in the short time we’ve been there have only been a few cases of bad diarrhea in our group, but nothing too extreme or dangerous. I’m hoping to stay rhea-free for the rest of my trip…keep all your fingers crossed, please!

Mandi. To Bathe. We have neither showers nor bathtubs. Instead there are huge cement vats that hold water that is pumped from a well behind our house every day. There are little plastic dippers that you use to scoop cold (freezing cold!) water onto yourself. There is no hot water! I’m not sure I will ever get used to the cold mandis, but it does get easier. I always have to mentally prepare myself for the first scoop…it’s always the worst…but then your body gets used to the temperature. One great thing about the mandi is that it does promote water conservation, in its own way. When you only have that cold water, you have all the incentive in the world to get out of that bathroom as quickly as possible! There is no lingering, hour-long shower or bath here.

At the beginning of our Peace Corps journey it seemed like squatty potties and cold mandis would be some of the biggest challenges we faced, but after this short amount of time here we have realized that these are the least of our problems and have quickly become second nature.

Sunday, August 1, 2010

My New Host Family

Lots of people and complicated relationships…the story of my Indonesian family life. So my official “guardians” are Pak Sul and Bu Sul, but I don’t live with them. I live in the house next door (which is actually just an extension of their house split down the middle) with Bu Sul’s late brother’s wife and her family. Bu Sul and Pak Sul rent out rooms in their house to a few students—Anisa, her sister Renita, Maya, Via, and Rina—who attend my school.

In my house are Bu Romlah (Bu Sul’s sister-in-law), her 7-year-old son Ilul, her 20-year-old daughter Alisa, and her daughter’s 23-year-old husband Budi. Bu Romlah’s husband passed away a few years ago of either a stroke or stomach complications (from what I could understand). So a few weeks ago, Bu Romlah got married to her 2nd husband, Pak Sam… and my family expanded even more, but no one except Pak Sam lives with us so I’m not going to confuse you with more people you won’t remember.

I hope you weren't holding your breath....

...but I'm finally back! After buying a laptop, having it malfunction numerous times, taking it back to the store multiple times, finally getting a confirmation that I was sold a faulty Acer laptop, sending it back to the warehouse for a new hard drive, and finally getting it back 2 months later, I am officially back in the game! I promise to write more regularly now. Please subscribe to my blog so you can get automatic reports when I update!